Cuisine:

• Others
• Vegetarian

Dirt Candy Description:
Let's first clear the air: Dirt Candy is a questionable name for a restaurant. It's a shame, too, as it comes from a good place: chef Amanda Cohen loves her vegetables, and she wants to share the love with you. But while the name is problematic, the food is a success. In part, it is because the cooking is blissfully free of ideology or health-nut mumbo jumbo. Instead, the dishes aim to please the pickiest of eaters who were heretofore unlikely to seek out a vegetarian restaurant. Cohen stacks the deck with butter, starch and cheese. Nibbles like jalapeño hush puppies with maple butter, a hearty spinach soup with smoked tofu dumplings, and kimchi donuts with almond hoisin sauce are all winners, even when the flavor combinations seem to be odd on paper. Entrées are on the heavy side, as they rely on starch almost exclusively; the crispy tofu with kaffir lime, however, is an exception and one of the better options if you crave protein. Desserts are another strength, save the mushy ricotta fritters with green tomato marmalade. Instead, opt for the lush sesame caramel cake or the addictive popcorn pudding with hazelnut.


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