Cuisine:

• Italian
• Sea food

Centolire Description:
Tucked into a corner of Madison Avenue, the two-level Centolire is a split-personality reflection of the neighborhood. The ground floor feels more casual and has a tiny bar in the back, while a glass elevator zips you up to a true Italian fine dining experience. The same menu is served on either floor and it's augmented daily with a locavore element. Menu staples such as insalata di carciofini are often joined by other artichoke dishes, such as carciofi alla Romana, prepared simply with fresh fennel. A large selection of pasta dishes can one night feature sweet manila clams in addition to more traditional bolognese or carbonara sauces, all depending on the yield of the day's greenmarket, which also determines the composition of the risotto of the day. The fish specials are a smart choice as well, with dorado and branzino served delicately moist and filleted. An unusual black sambuca complements its accompanying crunchy house biscotti, and is a lovely follow-up to the numerous wines by the glass. A three-course prix-fixe menu for $27.50 at lunchtime is a real neighborhood bargain.


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