Cuisine:

• French

The Gallery at Sketch Description:
Sketch either really annoys or you fall in love with it. But this beautiful, pretentious place continues to be a place to be seen, all through the various changes instigated by the endlessly energetic Mourad Mazouz ("Momo"), the French-Algerian restaurateur in Paris and London, and the chef who created the menu, Pierre Gagnaire. The Gallery is one of the two main restaurants (Lecture Room is the second) in the building---it's the sci-fi one. The pod-like lavatories and the moving images circling the white walls give the place its cutting-edge feel, which extends to the cooking. Gagnaire's inspired techniques and combinations are, on the whole, spot on. Dishes like salmon with lime and horseradish Chantilly, or roast saddle of rabbit with coco bean velouté and caramelized nuts surprise and delight with their combinations. But the slow cooking and reduction can also result in too many similar textures, which at times get tedious. The wine list is not kind to shallow pockets. Service is attentive; the atmosphere that of an overactive beehive. But Sketch is an experience, so go in the spirit of adventure and you'll not be disappointed.


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