Cuisine:

• Italian

Il Poggiolo Description:
Well-heeled locals and their debutante daughters cram into close tables at this loud, bi-level Jerry Kleiner venture. Jim Kilberg (Coco Pazzo, Bice, Gioco and Via Ventuno) is in the kitchen, and his Italian fare is pleasing to the masses. Tuna, red onion and cannelloni bean salad is a solid way to launch, though we're more partial to the crisp-crusted mushroom-Taleggio pizza. Minestrone has a bit of heat---and freshness, thanks to a dollop of pesto on top. Pasta, some house-made, arrives as it should: al dente. The thing is, of the two options we tried---rabbit ragù and spinach and ricotta-filled tortelloni in butter-sage sauce---one was overly salty, the other plain. Neither, truthfully, ignited excitement. Entrées keep it classic with choices like pan-roasted sea bass in anchovy sauce, strip steak with wild mushrooms and spinach and pan-roasted chicken with root vegetables. Sorbets and gelatos (not made in-house, but locally) are good, especially the Nutella version; Campari cheesecake is a winner, too. The dining room, outfitted with potted palms, soaring ceilings, rich red velvet and Kleiner's signature looming, architectural lighting, has hot-spot written all over it, a fact that's furthered by the boutique label-leaning wine and craft cocktail lists.


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