Cuisine:

• French

Pic Description:
Pic is an innovative, hundred-year-old restaurant. Anne-Sophie, representing the fourth generation of the Pic family in the kitchen, offers tasty blends of tradition and modernity in an elegant setting. Among her creations are the "ravioli with tuna marinated in spiced tomato jelly, avocado and fennel sorbet rocket", the "slow-cooked turbot in salted butter, black truffle, grated turnip and asparagus" and the "Drôme pigeon in a nut crust".
From her late father, Jacques, Anne-Sophie Pic inherited a rock-solid classic technique, a gift for saucery, and an unerring eye for premium ingredients. Her Menu Tradition showcases her talents with a splendid procession of dishes: escalope of salmon showered with sesame seeds segues into a remarkably bracing lobster in caviar vinaigrette with lentils, tabbouleh, and fresh peas. On to the main course: veal sweetbreads paired with morels and a delicate artichoke purée, followed by a sugar-free sorbet of marc de l'Hermitage. Do indulge in the cheese tray's irresistible local chèvres, because the desserts, frankly, are a letdown. And their sheer quantity only make us long the more for a single, superlative sweet on par with the rest. This restaurant---with its total comfort, upper middle class furnishings, spacious rooms and lovely gardens---is somehow a relic of the past, and it is high time that the kitchen get its act together. The renovation of the premises should perhaps be accompanied by a renovation of the general state of mind: one cannot live forever on past glories. The cellar, though, is sumptuous, a landmark for lovers of Côtes du Rhône wines.


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