Cuisine:

• Others
• Eclectic
• Contemporary

Colborne Lane Restaurant Description:
Talented and driven chef Claudio Aprile pushes the boundaries of gastronomy often to great success and equally great controversy by flirting with molecular cuisine and other avant-garde cooking techniques, elBulli style. After six years at Senses restaurant, he's in his element at the helm of his own in an historic building. The bar upfront, loud music and wall mirrors with white "cocaine" lines down the middle might mislead one to think the food's an afterthought. Yet one bite of juicy, tea-smoked squab on a spiced quince crêpe with foie gras or Peking duck breast with confit chicken wing dressed with licorice and burnt honey sauce and the gourmet sighs with satisfaction. Rock hen breast with chorizo-and-fig-stuffed thigh is another dazzling interplay of flavors and textures. The chef's shrimp allergy means a prawn ceviche misses the taste test, but mostly the decorative small plate-style dishes excite and intrigue. Desserts are often more intellectual than unctuous (think spice loaf with nitro Thai chile ice cream and cardamom caramel). The thoughtful wine list---while not extensive---includes interesting selections such as rare Canadian find Le Clos Jordan Pinot Noir.


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