Cuisine:

• Homestyle
• Steak House
• Californian

cityhouse Description:
The Parc 55 Hotel underwent a $30 million redesign, aimed to bring a hipper, updated look to the property. The hotel's only full-service restaurant, cityhouse, is an extension of that renovation and works hard to attract a younger, stylish crowd to its modern and minimalist lounge and dining room. Despite the makeover, however, the place still feels shabby. The carpet appears worn, while the black tablecloths offsetting the brown dining room chairs have a dumpy effect. Overall, the menu plays it safe. Seafood dominates and choices such as Dungeness crab cakes encrusted in chickpeas and then deep-fried aren't sophisticated, but satisfy. Trying to assert itself as a first-class steak and chophouse, cityhouse employs a wood smoker to some success. The Angus beef tenderloin is a plump, substantial cut of meat charred on the outside, and wonderfully juicy on the inside. Ingredients aren't always fresh, as evidenced with a sea bass prepared in a pot of Pernod-saffron broth that lacked texture, density and flavor; same for a too tart cobbler that clearly featured under-ripe fruit. The wine list, although entirely Californian, is extensive and offers several good selections.


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