Cuisine:

• Sea food
• Cajun
• Creole

Middendorf's Description:
Middendorf's notable way with fried catfish, of which the owners buy two tons every week, makes the 60-minute trek to Pass Manchac a pittance to pay for thousands of New Orleanians who join the locals in lining up for the first-rate catfish meal. The three large, unconnected structures seem never to be empty. The filets are sliced by hand so thin that, after breading and frying, they become one of the area's most delectable tidbits: greaseless, crisp and always cooked to order. Contrarians also may order the fried catfish thick-cut or whole, styles that don't lend themselves to chip-like dipping into tartar sauce but do provide more catfish flavor. The only remarkable bit of décor is the main building's restrooms, which are crafted completely from stainless steel, a defensive tactic prompted by the nearby railroad tracks as the trains rattled the tiles off the walls. If catfish isn't your deal, there are other options, namely a fine stew of oysters with milk and scallions, the stuffed crab and a broiled whole flounder that no restaurant would be ashamed of delivering to a table.


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