Cuisine:

• Japanese
• Brew, Pubs, Microbreweries

En Japanese Brasserie Description:
Walk into EN Japanese Brasserie on the sleepy corner of Leroy and Hudson and transform to a netherworld. At 5,000 square feet (there's a reflecting pool here, too), smart designer Ichiro Sato fuses wood, concrete and refinement much like the uptown utopian "department store," Takashimaya. Somehow the mile-high ceilings and spaciousness imbue an intimacy, warmth and peacefulness---conversation is not sucked up into the sky. The staff reflects this warmth and hospitality, led by owner, Reika Yo. It's Yo's hope to 'educate' New Yorkers on Japanese delicacies less familiar. So, if you are looking for a standard sushi roll experience, we advise you go elsewhere. EN centers their cooking on the most fundamental building block of Japanese cooking, dashi, or freshly made bonito stock; it adds profound flavor profiles. A visit to EN must include the handmade (every 90 minutes) tofu and yuba. It's fundamental to the menu here, an art form really, and while the kitchen turns out several different styles, we especially like the cold version. Ladle it from square wooden bowls and add a little wari-joyu, soy and dashi sauce; an earthy way to begin. Sashimi arrives on ice, artfully presented. The sea bass kara-age is a must. The medallions marinate in sake, and are gently fried, maintaining the delicate texture. Ebi Shinjo are shrimp fitters, deep fried and salted, perhaps a bit heavy. Opt for a better choice, the miso black cod. The latter two items are also available on the kaiseki menu if you choose that adventure. Dine with a group and the gyu-suki, beef cooked tableside in a slightly sweet soy broth flavored with scallions, impresses all. The pace of service can be quick, so gently remind your server (who knows the menu backwards and forwards) to slow the flow of dishes down. You'll want to sit here awhile and finish with the house ice creams (the sesame flavor is divine) and soak in this Tokyo-like experience.


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