Cuisine:

• American

Waverly Inn Description:
Once a quiet neighborhood place, a change of owners changed everything, as it's now a place to see and be seen. And still the atmosphere manages to live up to the name that the word "inn" usually brings to mind: an inviting place to rest your bones and eat some solid food. This anachronistic wooden house on one of the Village's quaintest corners certainly looks the part with its low ceilings, antique flooring, fireplaces and retro-style murals. But the welcome mat gets pulled from underneath your feet at the host stand, unless you're a VIP. It's been reported ad nauseum: only celebs and the elite of the magazine world shall dine inside. Yes, that was Jack Nicholson commandeering a banquette. And Vanity Fair's Graydon Carter walks around like he owns the place, because he does. But if you're lucky enough to get in the door you'll find that the comfort at this inn lies on the nostalgic menu. Nothing says homespun extravagance more than mac 'n' cheese topped with slivers of white truffle, and while $55 may seem usurious for noodles, it's generous and filling enough to provide a luxurious side dish for a party of four. The flaky crust of the chicken potpie drapes over the bowl, encasing meat and vegetables in a nicely textured sauce---not too creamy, not too thin. And the hefty pork chop spills juices like a chicken Kiev at a knife's touch. It's impressive how the kitchen manages to cook so well among the Page Six circus in the dining room. There are few better spots to go for dinner and a show.


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