Cuisine:

• American

The Harrison Description:
The Harrison's dining room has an unassuming charm, maintained to a neighborly polish with creamy walls, dark wood, a walnut bar and flattering lighting. The decibel level, at least on a weeknight, lends itself to conversation. The cooking is in the modern American style, taking full advantage of the seasonal offerings. There are happy little ideas like biscuits and gravy studded with scallions and mounted with three species of clams and bits of chorizo. Peekytoe crab (rock crabs) go glamorous with avocado, grapefruit and mustard oil. Scallops with hominy, black olives, pecans and an aji amarillo sauce is a masterpiece of sweet seafood flavors and textures; the crispy-fried clams with lemon-coriander aïoli lasts only a few seconds. A buttery skate wing fans out against cucumber, pineapple, capers and a balsamic vinegar for equal sweet, sour and vegetal notes. Dessert might entail a Meyer lemon meringue pie with candied kumquats and lemon-thyme sabayon (a cousin of zabaglione) or a terrific, gooey coconut custard tart. Pastry chef Jeff Gerace reaches new heights with a dish of beignets (fried sweet dough) cuddled in a napkin. Pop one in your mouth, bite down slowly, and chocolate spurts out over your palate in wondrous ooze.


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