Cuisine:

• Indian

Dhaba Description:
In India, highways are littered with truck-stop-like eateries called dhaba, serving up easy, comforting dishes. In New York, smack in the center of "Curry Hill," is another Dhaba, this one far from the no-frills environs of a sub-continental truck-stop. The chic eatery, complete with Edison light bulbs, plenty of color and professional service, has a unique menu. There's a section dedicated to British-style curries, which may seem ho-hum at first, but include some uncommon preparations on these shores, including balcho, a dish from Goa that's loaded with curry leaves and mustard seeds. The meaty kebabs are a good bet, particularly the "medley," a large communal plate of tender lamb chops, shrimp and chicken. There's enough on the menu---stuffed naan, various versions of chaat, and scores of vegetarian options---that several visits are necessary to get a good sampling. And for the lover of good Indian food, this isn't a problem.


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