Cuisine:

• Italian

Convivio Description:
Taking over another chef's kitchen is akin to succeeding a political office. While philosophies of the elect and the retiree might not necessarily match, the incumbent struggles for a smooth transition. Chef Michael White (ex-Fiamma) must have felt that way when he first took over the kitchen at L'Impero, as opening chef Scott Conant's predilections weren't necessarily in line with his own vision for the restaurant. What to do? Start over. So L'Impero became Convivio. White's campaign makes its mark by adding blood-orange banquettes, white fringe along the walls and a shiny lacquered ceiling for a brighter and more comfortable feel, and the menu now settles in southern Italy, with a wider variety of rustic flavors. Choosing from the 40-plus dishes is difficult. Here's our vote: Get the $59 four-course menu, one of Midtown's best values. Sfizi such as spicy, vinegary baby eggplant cubes make a charismatic starter, but tripe sausage offers the biggest menu surprise, with a soft, meaty texture that will win over even those usually offended by offal. The pastas are the most engaging of all, however. Fusilli grips long-cooked pork shoulder for a soulful, bolognese-like taste; taralli, whole wheat circles, come with a juicy, slurp-worthy garlic and sweet sausage sauce; and panzotti, plump packages of ricotta, boast a bright touch of tomato. A tender, venison-like squab and milky veal loin are better entrée choices than the too-chewy, over-charred octopus. But desserts, like an affogato with espresso poured over ricotta-vanilla bean ice cream, make it clear that the right administration is in this "White" house.


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