Cuisine:

• French
• Contemporary
• Fast Food and Hamburgers

L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon Description:
One particular dish perfectly captures the essence of this long-awaited restaurant from a true culinary superstar. "Le Burger" is actually two little sliders of foie gras, equally juicy beef patties and a tiny heap of caramelized peppers piled inside brioche buns. They are meticulously constructed, yet there's a winking flippancy in their presentation and a stroke of comfort in their flavor. This lack of stuffiness signals exactly what is so great about L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon. Tucked inside a corner of the Four Seasons hotel, 30 table seats add a twist to this outpost of Robuchon's brand, which also exists in Paris, Tokyo and Las Vegas. But the 20-seat bar, an intimate, U-shaped outcropping from an immaculate kitchen, is still the most coveted space. Glass showcases along the bar feature perfect red, yellow and green peppers, while vases filled with limes and other greenery lend flair to the blond wood room, trimmed with the trademark black and red. And the menu, like the other branches, is divided into small plates, smaller plates and entrées. Among its highlights: lollipop-like frogs' legs, the meltingly soft meat pushed to the end of the bone, then delicately fried until crispy; a tender, plump langoustine, wrapped in a crunchy wonton, making for a spectacularly juicy spring roll; silken strands of homemade spaghetti, brightly touched with fresh tomato, tuna confit and olives; and Le Sucre, crème anglaise inside a candied violet shell, drizzled with a blackberry and rose coulis and accompanied by a creamy milk ice cream. Everything is so wonderfully prepared that the one clumsy offering stands out: perfect little squares of sashimi-style tuna lost in the salty overkill of sun-dried tomatoes, olives and fleur de sel. Instead, put your prejudices and pretensions aside and order Le Burger.


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