Cuisine:

• French

Le Bouchon Description:
Le Bouchon is a resolutely pretty place to eat. There are sidewalk tables for afternoons and balmy evenings, a dining room decorated in French bistro style, and a patio in back, replete with fountain, for an inside-outside ambience. However, one cannot eat the decoration, and the kitchen's offerings of classic French dishes---boeuf bourguignon, choucroute, confit de canard---are mostly bland, and sometimes downright mediocre. On one visit, the salade Lyonnaise had the requisite bacon, croutons and poached egg, but was woefully underdressed, and all three of a trio of terrines tasted alike (nearly flavorless). The bavette in shallot sauce is suitably tender, but from an insipid cut of beef, and the mussels could stand up to stronger flavors in their white wine sauce. Perhaps the best bet is to have a drink at Le Bouchon's lovely bar, and then eat elsewhere.


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