Cuisine:

• American
• Fast Food and Hamburgers

XIV Description:
Why XIV? Because this is celebrated San Francisco chef Michael Mina's fourteenth restaurant, the first in Los Angeles. It also relates to the Sun King (Louis XIV), whose style inspired world-famous French designer Philippe Starck, at least as he conceived one side of the space. Push open the door of the white cube-like structure, simply decorated with a huge "XIV" sign made of ivy, and one is not sure yet what to expect inside. On the left, the ultra-modern steel bar faces a classic library done in a style reminiscent of Versailles, fashioned from wood paneling and filled with old books, warmed by five fireplaces and adorned with contemporary paintings. Keep walking to discover the executive chef, Steven Fretz, and his staff, behind windows encased in more steel; and end up on the rather sexy patio where Starck's trademark mirrors reflect the green wall of ivy isolating it from busy Sunset Boulevard. Those who had experienced XIV in the past or had just heard about the restaurant should be prepared for a total change. Michael Mina and his team heard the feedback loud and clear, and worked very hard on the concept and the food itself. We can now enjoy regular-size dishes, on large plates---with a knife and fork. The preparations are inventive and elegant as we would expect from Mina. Start with the hamachi sashimi accompanied by pickled strawberries, the foie gras terrine covered with a rhubarb gelée or the salt-and-pepper squid with glass noodles. We particularly liked the sea scallops on a bed of tempura crumble, almonds and cauliflower in a passion fruit jus. Move on to a perfectly cooked halibut served with ultra fresh vegetables with some hints of bacon; the duck three ways (seared foie gras, leg confit and roasted breast); or the Berkshire pork loin and its crispy belly. Pastry chef Jordan Kahn, who had been creating the most unusual desserts, is gone. Mina Group corporate pastry chef Lincoln Carson is now in charge of ending your meal. His style is very different from Kahn, yet it is very creative and modern. Taste the yuzu and lemon grass in the passion fruit panna cotta. Admire the plate of mascarpone mousse served with chocolate sorbet and milk sponge cake before indulging in it. Another chocolate delight is the milk chocolate cream. Note that the chef is still happy to make decisions for you and compose a menu in tasting portions (eight-courses $65, 11-courses $88, 14-courses $112). The wine list carries around 200 selections from small European and California producers; you can enjoy all bottles for half price on Mondays.