Cuisine:

• Belgian

Belgo Noord Description:
The original Belgo still keeps our vote as the best of the group, though Covent Garden comes a very close second. A concrete entrance leads you into a Dante-esque space---you see the heaving, fiery kitchens from above before descending into a cavernous room where names and expressions are massively carved into the concrete. Mussels, beer and chips is the raison d'être for the Belgo group and mighty satisfying too are these steaming bowls of moules prepared in different ways---Provençal, classic, with mustard, served in platters or pots and all coming with frites and mayonnaise. But the menu doesn't stop here: there are salads, grills and specials like game in season, perhaps partridge braised in an Abbey beer with Ardennes ham, Savoy cabbage and filling parsley mash. The beer list includes some 95 Belgian beers, followed by schnapps served in small glasses and held aloft in wooden carriers by hard-working staff. Also at 50 Earlham St., WC2, 020-7813 2223; 44-48 Clapham High Rd., SW4, 020-7720 1118; 67 Kingsway, WC2, 020-7242 7469.


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