Cuisine:

• Italian

The River Café Description:
When a fire closed The River Café, London's chattering classes were devastated. For years this had been their canteen where Ruth Rogers and Rosie Gray provided daily sustenance for them as well as training young chefs of the likes of Jamie Oliver (Fifteen), Theo Randall (Theo Randall at the InterContinental) and April Bloomfield (of the thoroughly British gastropub The Spotted Pig in New York). Now, the media-heavy clientele have flocked back. The room has been slightly changed with a longer bar for much welcome light eating and drinking and a kitchen now completely open to view. The open fire remains and so do most of the much tried and much loved dishes which change twice daily---at the same prices. Well known for top ingredients cooked simply but quite well, diners return for San Danielle prosciutto with chard; Dover sole wood-roasted with marjoram and capers with roast fennel and plum tomatoes; and chargrilled, marinated leg of lamb with salsa verde, cannellini beans and Italian spinach. This is a glorious celebration of all that is best in simple, rustic Italian cooking. Italian cheeses are first rate; desserts like the chocolate nemesis and homemade ice creams round off a memorable meal. Wines are Italian, well-chosen and ungreedily marked up; service is charming; and your fellow guests are undoubtedly mostly famous.


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