Cuisine:

• Spanish
• Tapas
• Fast Food and Hamburgers

Aqua Nueva Description:
Hong Kong's Aqua group has established itself at the top of what was once Dickins & Jones department store. Aqua Nueva is the Spanish part; there's also the Japanese Aqua Kyoto, plus three terraces, one with the bar, Aqua Spirit. You get in via the entrance in Argyll Street opposite the London Palladium and are taken upstairs in a lift then walk down a corridor that separates the two restaurants. Aqua Nueva is long and thin, with tables and banquette seating facing a bar where you can also eat, and odd décor---turned wooden objects that hang from the ceiling. The cooking is patchy though the chef's heart is in the right place, as it should be. Alberto Hernandez has cooked at elBulli. For something different choose the likes of 24-hour marinated and braised oxtail with pumpkin purée or partridge with seared foie gras and baked chestnut custard. There's also a tapas bar for more casual eating---choose the Ibérico ham which is as always first-rate. When the place opened it was moderately empty and echoing; now there are evenings when the place is full and it buzzes. But like everything here, it's a bit hit and miss.


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