Cuisine:

• European

The Giaconda Dining Room Description:
Opened in a former café that saw the likes of David Bowie and The Clash quenching their thirst on cups of tea, the Giaconda is raising the tone of the street known as Tin Pan Alley and home to the music industry. Australian chef Paul Merrony and his wife Tracey's restaurant is a simple black-and-white dining room where those in the know flock for the kind of cooking of lowly ingredients that is a trend. Go here to see how it should be done. Paul Merrony trained with the Roux brothers and worked at La Tour d'Argent in Paris and uses classic, top technique to produce the likes of marinated salmon with fennel and cucumber, and a first-rate "almost!" (their words) boneless crispy pigs trotter with eggs mayonnaise. Follow it with a fine grilled chicken with roast garlic and herbs, or duck confit with Lyonnaise potatoes. Then it's on to chocolate mousse cake with a rich, satisfying caramel sauce or well kept cheese. Prices are as friendly (starters around £5.50-£7, the most expensive main course is the duck confit at £14.50). Wine prices are just as modest, with no greedy markups. This is a gem, well worth braving the guitar shops of Denmark Street to get to; service led or often solely undertaken by Tracey Merrony is delightful.


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