Cuisine:

• French

Moulin de Mougins Description:
Contemporary design for avant-garde cuisine: in a freshly refurbished mill in pure white with splashes of plum, with bright rooms that open onto the garden, chef Sebastien Chambru, Meilleur Ouvrier de France in 2007 and a former student of Paul Bocuse, conjures up truly revolutionary culinary experiences.
The modest setting with its pleasant veranda, the terrace under the olive-trees and the cicadas, underlines the trajectory of the menu, which is at once traditional and contemporary. You can taste the classic and the modern in dishes like the John Dory blood sausage with seashells and coconut--a very pretty, contemporary dish. Llorca certainly is a gifted chef who can easily juggle tradition along with his personal short cuts. His tapas menu is always engaging and playful (if you don't want to play at the dinette for €170, hang onto the carte or the three plates at €115) and his technique is very tempting, with which he attacks potatoes (in raviolis, mashed with escargot butter and with morel mushrooms in blanquette) or lamb (stuffed saddle with soft cheese). He also successfully supervises a pâtisserie, for both those interested in innovative pastries and those who love to eat. Only the cellar escapes this wind of inclusion, with its limited list. Provençal wines are well-represented at shyly discouraging prices (Grange des Pères 2003 at €240, which will make the sommelier smile).


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