Cuisine:

• French

La Madeleine Description:
The chef here trained at Lasserre, in Paris. This is readily apparent in the skill he demonstrates--and in the delusions of grandeur he possesses. Needless to say, we'd be happier if he dropped the fancy airs and let his craftsmanship and good ideas speak for themselves. A number of dishes work in so many flavors they end up cancelling one another out. Some offerings are well worth two toques; others merit an act of contrition. The cellar, put together by an accomplished wine steward, offers some superb Chablis.


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