Cuisine:

• Others
• Thai

Jhanthong Banbua Description:
The neon Thai Motel marquis and surrounding scruffy motor inn may make you think twice. But write off the location as a forgivable quirk and settle into the cheery dining room adorned with gilded imports and knickknacks for sale. This diamond in the rough offers an authentic slew of sensual flavors: a rainbow of curries that don't fear fire, tangy lime-dressed salads of papaya or greens, and earthy rice noodles from "old style" kanom jeen nam pik (with shrimp, boiled egg and peanut sauce) to ubiquitous pad thai. Most dishes allow customization for fish, fowl, four-legs, or veggies; there's also wiggle room with heat. Oddly, entrées seem to look different from visit to visit---though taste consistently pleases. Limited wines, and Thai beer and iced tea help to chill down.


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