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Topolos at Russian River Vineyards Description:
In value-conscious times, Corks offers refined dining in the form of a bargain, four-course, prix-fixe menu. Begin with soup such as the unusual but successful purée of stewed tomatoes, peanut butter, a hint of curry and Marsala, with a wild pea shoot garnish. Among four salads as a second course, consider orange segments with beets and local goat cheese dressed in light sherry vinaigrette. Mains include hanger steak, pan-seared salmon with white beans and basil pine nut aïoli, and tender lamb shank on creamy mash. Hope the steamed lemon cake makes an appearance; the upturned dome, served cold, has the texture of cheesecake with a tart lemon custard top studded with berries. The trim wine list of Sonoma bottlings includes estate varietals and tiny but heralded producers---many reasonably priced. Polite servers readily recite dish details and related trivia. The humble dining room in browns with soft lighting and unimposing art allows the venue's best feature to shine: an expansive brick patio rimmed by redwoods. The lovely al fresco setting is made all the more intriguing by the decaying, historic winery's silhouette; at dusk, diners and servers pause in awe of bats streaking from the rustic towers.


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