Cuisine:

• Italian

Vineria Cozzi Description:
The sweet facade of Vineria Cozzi will immediately win your heart. Inside is a bustling wine bar. Venture to the rear to find two small dining rooms with red-and-white diamond-patterned floor tiles, bent metal chairs, walls of yellow-ochre banded with green wainscoting, one hung with an enchanting cherub who watches over you while you dine. Consider the casonsei pasta, which translates to little britches, twisted like candy wrappers containing cheese, sausage bits and sage, in a rich sauce of butter and Parmigiano. Plump ravioli with smoked cheese rests on a bed of spinach, braised fennel, pignoli and sweet raisins. A good choice is confit of duck with roast potatoes, grapes and prunes; skip the roast rabbit and polenta. With a bottle of sturdy Valtellina wine, the bill comes to about $95, including tax and service. Or opt to eat at the wine bar up front, where you may sample and sip and pay very little for a fine casual lunch.


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