Cuisine:

• Others
• Contemporary

Crush Description:
When chef Daniel Chaustit took over the space formerly occupied by Taste, he kept the décor exactly the same. It's all there, from the bar to the ticking upholstery and nautical-goes-uptown rope trim; even the slide, a souvenir of a long-ago shoe store, is still in place. This was a good move, as it turns out, because Taste's look was its most popular feature. Chaustit's innovation was to jettison his predecessor's special-occasion vibe, and replace it with a versatile high-low menu. Fat burgers, classed-up BLTs, and elegant seafood small-plates are available for less than $10, and desserts, which include a Jewish apple cake and cookies with a root beer float on the side, are comfortably old-school creations by the chef's mom. However, diners can also go all out with a $30 rockfish with truffled mashed potatoes, or a New York strip plated with lobster mac 'n' cheese. The cooking doesn't dazzle with its creativity, but impresses with its classic simplicity.


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