Cuisine:

• American
• New American
• Others
• Contemporary

Aria Description:
This vibrant, stylish establishment welcomes its guests through a curtain of silver beads, designed to represent a complete break with the past. Gerry Klaskala's menu plays with regional dishes and home-style cooking. The tender beef short ribs braised in Zinfandel achieve home-style harmony with the wine. Pristine ingredients are the rule, from nicely cooked sea scallops, sweet and translucent in the center, which may come with prosciutto and truffle "dust," to ever-present foie gras in a preparation that changes with the chef's whim. Risotto perfumed with a generous shaving of Perigord-sourced black truffle is cooked to order and comes al dente. Dishes are set off with reductions of veal jus and presented simply, never garishly. Get the free-form duck ravioli if it's offered, and lamb any way it's prepared. Desserts change nightly, according to pastry chef Kathryn King, who makes her own ice creams. Her dessert creativity approaches the philosophical, combining classical purity with a distinctive edginess that never goes over the top. The frisky wine list ranges through the unusual varietals, such as Albariño and Tocai Friulano. A nifty touch: Waiters present the bottle for by-the-glass wine-purchasing patrons, so they may see exactly what is being poured, and, to approve the choice, a small sip is poured before the entire pour is rendered.


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